WELCOME TO THE FORK AND SHOCK SETUP PAGE
Fork and shock installation :
1. Forks and shocks should be installed according to your
owners manual. Improper installation could result in
improper handling and harshness or even mechanical
failure.
1. Forks and shocks should be installed according to your
owners manual. Improper installation could result in
improper handling and harshness or even mechanical
failure.
PRO-ACTION FORK SETUP GUIDE :
If you received your forks back from us then they are ready
to bolt on. The oil level is set and the compression and
rebound adjusters should be within two clicks in either
direction. If your forks were sent in for a oil change , seal or
bushing replacement and no revalving work done , the
adjusters will be set where we received them unless
otherwise stated.
If you received your forks through UPS service , they have
been allowed to lay flat. Before installing the forks on the
bike , stand them up and pump them 10 to 12 times each
with caps on. This will force the oil back into the cartridges.
SETTING COMPRESSION :
Step 1 : When riding the forks should flow smoothly. They
should react to all changes in terrain. If the forks seem
harsh on small choppy bumps , lighten the compression
dampening.
Step 2 : With the compression dampening set for smooth
action over small bumps , the forks should work on rougher
terrain. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacles
on the track. If harsh bottoming occurs, increase oil level in
5 mm increments.
SETTING REBOUND :
The rebound dampening is the speed at which the front
wheel returns to the ground. Rebound is not only
responsible for straight line handling but also is the energy
that holds your front wheel in a corner.
Step 1 : Out on the track find a good corner , preferably a
short sweeper. The forks compress to set up for a turn
(providing you ride and apply your front brake correctly).
The speed at which the forks rebound is the energy that
pushes your front end in to the ground. If the forks are
allowed to rebound too quickly , the energy will be used up
to early and the front end will wash or push to the outside.
If the forks rebound too slowly , the front end will tuck
under and turn too soon. Adjust accordingly.
Step 2 : With the forks handling well in the corners , go on
to rougher sections of the track. The fork action should be
smooth and the wheel should return to the ground quickly ,
it should not bounce off jumps or deflect off berms.
Note : If head shake occurs , try lowering the fork legs in
the triple clamps. This will extend your wheel base. If you
have exhausted yourself with tuning and still can't get it
right , you may want to consider our revalving service. If
you are using a set of our revalved forks and are having
problems....CALL US IMMEDIATELY!
PRO-ACTION SHOCK SETUP GUIDE :
Your shock should be ready to bolt on straight out of the
shipping box. It should be within 2 clicks , in either direction
, on your rebound and compression adjusters. Spring
preload is set at 10mm (follow sag setting steps after
installation. ***For shocks with a remote reservoir do not
attempt to loosen the hose to reposition it.***
SETTING SAG :
The sag of your bike is determined by the rate of your
spring and the amount the spring is pre-loaded.
STEP 1 : Put the bike or atv on a stand so the weight is off
the rear wheel(s). Take the measurement from the center
of the axle to a solid point above (seatbolt / fender) and
write this measurement down.
STEP 2 : At this point a second person is needed. Take
the machine off the stand. Place on level ground. Bounce
lightly a couple of times. Position yourself in the neutral
position of the seat directly over the foot pegs. Have your
assistant measure using the same points of your first
measurement. Subtract this measurement from your first
and this is your race sag. Adjust accordingly by adding or
subtracting spring preload until you have between 95 and
100 mm of sag.
STEP 3 : Check static sag with rider off the bike. Bounce
the bike to resettle the suspension. Measure again using
the same 2 points as before. Subtract this from your first
measurement to get static sag. With your race sag set at
95 mm , the proper static sag should be between 15 and 25
mm. If the static sag is less you need a stiffer spring , if it is
more you will need a lighter spring.
SETTING REBOUND :
When the sag is properly set , find a long straight away
with some breaking bumps going in to a corner. Subtract or
soften the rebound until the rear end feels a little springy or
loose , then turn the screw in until that springy sensation
goes away. Find a jump next , the wheel should hit and
absorb but not bounce. If it bounces add rebound. Now go
to a section of whoops or rockers. The bike should track
straight and absorb bumps with the rear wheel returning
quickly enough as not to pack. Packing is caused by the
rear wheel not coming back fast enough to absorb the next
bump. If packing occurs , soften the rebound.
SETTING COMPRESSION :
With the sag and rebound set , find a corner on the track
with choppy acceleration bumps leaving the corner. If the
rear wheel seems to lose traction or bounce over the tops ,
soften the compression (for bikes with high and low speed -
adjust low speed). Next try some g-outs and jumps. You
should bottom on the worst obstacles , but it should not be
bone jarring. You can adjust the high speed adjuster to a
stiffer setting to help with these obstacles.
Note: These tips are starting points and may not be correct
for everyone. If you cant seem to get it right , give us a call.
We are here to help you.
If you received your forks back from us then they are ready
to bolt on. The oil level is set and the compression and
rebound adjusters should be within two clicks in either
direction. If your forks were sent in for a oil change , seal or
bushing replacement and no revalving work done , the
adjusters will be set where we received them unless
otherwise stated.
If you received your forks through UPS service , they have
been allowed to lay flat. Before installing the forks on the
bike , stand them up and pump them 10 to 12 times each
with caps on. This will force the oil back into the cartridges.
SETTING COMPRESSION :
Step 1 : When riding the forks should flow smoothly. They
should react to all changes in terrain. If the forks seem
harsh on small choppy bumps , lighten the compression
dampening.
Step 2 : With the compression dampening set for smooth
action over small bumps , the forks should work on rougher
terrain. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacles
on the track. If harsh bottoming occurs, increase oil level in
5 mm increments.
SETTING REBOUND :
The rebound dampening is the speed at which the front
wheel returns to the ground. Rebound is not only
responsible for straight line handling but also is the energy
that holds your front wheel in a corner.
Step 1 : Out on the track find a good corner , preferably a
short sweeper. The forks compress to set up for a turn
(providing you ride and apply your front brake correctly).
The speed at which the forks rebound is the energy that
pushes your front end in to the ground. If the forks are
allowed to rebound too quickly , the energy will be used up
to early and the front end will wash or push to the outside.
If the forks rebound too slowly , the front end will tuck
under and turn too soon. Adjust accordingly.
Step 2 : With the forks handling well in the corners , go on
to rougher sections of the track. The fork action should be
smooth and the wheel should return to the ground quickly ,
it should not bounce off jumps or deflect off berms.
Note : If head shake occurs , try lowering the fork legs in
the triple clamps. This will extend your wheel base. If you
have exhausted yourself with tuning and still can't get it
right , you may want to consider our revalving service. If
you are using a set of our revalved forks and are having
problems....CALL US IMMEDIATELY!
PRO-ACTION SHOCK SETUP GUIDE :
Your shock should be ready to bolt on straight out of the
shipping box. It should be within 2 clicks , in either direction
, on your rebound and compression adjusters. Spring
preload is set at 10mm (follow sag setting steps after
installation. ***For shocks with a remote reservoir do not
attempt to loosen the hose to reposition it.***
SETTING SAG :
The sag of your bike is determined by the rate of your
spring and the amount the spring is pre-loaded.
STEP 1 : Put the bike or atv on a stand so the weight is off
the rear wheel(s). Take the measurement from the center
of the axle to a solid point above (seatbolt / fender) and
write this measurement down.
STEP 2 : At this point a second person is needed. Take
the machine off the stand. Place on level ground. Bounce
lightly a couple of times. Position yourself in the neutral
position of the seat directly over the foot pegs. Have your
assistant measure using the same points of your first
measurement. Subtract this measurement from your first
and this is your race sag. Adjust accordingly by adding or
subtracting spring preload until you have between 95 and
100 mm of sag.
STEP 3 : Check static sag with rider off the bike. Bounce
the bike to resettle the suspension. Measure again using
the same 2 points as before. Subtract this from your first
measurement to get static sag. With your race sag set at
95 mm , the proper static sag should be between 15 and 25
mm. If the static sag is less you need a stiffer spring , if it is
more you will need a lighter spring.
SETTING REBOUND :
When the sag is properly set , find a long straight away
with some breaking bumps going in to a corner. Subtract or
soften the rebound until the rear end feels a little springy or
loose , then turn the screw in until that springy sensation
goes away. Find a jump next , the wheel should hit and
absorb but not bounce. If it bounces add rebound. Now go
to a section of whoops or rockers. The bike should track
straight and absorb bumps with the rear wheel returning
quickly enough as not to pack. Packing is caused by the
rear wheel not coming back fast enough to absorb the next
bump. If packing occurs , soften the rebound.
SETTING COMPRESSION :
With the sag and rebound set , find a corner on the track
with choppy acceleration bumps leaving the corner. If the
rear wheel seems to lose traction or bounce over the tops ,
soften the compression (for bikes with high and low speed -
adjust low speed). Next try some g-outs and jumps. You
should bottom on the worst obstacles , but it should not be
bone jarring. You can adjust the high speed adjuster to a
stiffer setting to help with these obstacles.
Note: These tips are starting points and may not be correct
for everyone. If you cant seem to get it right , give us a call.
We are here to help you.
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